Éirinn go Brách Visiting beautiful Ireland was always on my bucket list. My dad made the trip back when I was younger and I remember the awesome photos he brought back of the Cliffs, the rolling green grass and most astonishing to me, a picture of him with an uncle of his he had met while on the Aran Islands. I remember thinking that was the craziest thing ever- family in another country? So cool. So, I decided this was the time to reach out and see who I could meet while finally making my trip to the the "homeland". Earlier last month I reached out to Caitlín Conneely, a cousin of mine living in Ballinasloe, right outside of Galway. Without hesitation, she offered to be my host for the weekend and told me she would be delighted to show me around Ireland and take me to meet my family. Immediately, I knew this was going to be the trip of a lifetime. So, here it goes... The travel was a bit much on Friday... train from Bologna to Milan, bus to the airport, flight to Dublin, three hour shuttle to Galway and finally... I absolutely CRASHED into my hostel bed. I definitely fell asleep with a huge smile though, knowing Caitlín would be picking me up and the family reunion would begin! My dad's grandfather, Bartly O'Flaherta (Flaherty), grew up on the Aran Islands. He moved to Chicago in 1910 where he married Marie Boyle, became a Chicago cop and had many children. His daughter Patricia Flaherty, had nine of her own, Edward Meyer being one of them, my Da and so here I am. Most of Bartly's family and their children still call Inis Oírr "home" so I knew for certain I wanted to make it there. Though the weather during this time in Ireland is not promised very nice, the luck of the Irish was definitely on my side this weekend- the clouds retreated just long enough for the Aran Ferry to make it across without a problem- I was so thankful for this. So, Caitlín and I grabbed breakfast Saturday morning and made the windy, rainy and chilly journey to the Islands. The Aran Islands are a 10-minute flight or an hour ferry ride from Galway, the main town on Ireland's West coast. Three limestone islands make up the Aran Islands: Inishmore, Inishmaan, and Inisheer. The smallest being Inisheer, or Inis Oírr in Gaelic, is less populated and much less touristy. It is home to about 300 islanders and is the most beautiful little green gem of Ireland. Inis Oírr is only a bit more than 1,000 acres and has such weather-beaten charm. As soon as Caitlín and I boarded the ferry boat, we were greeted by several Gaelic-speaking folks. Caitlín was so excited about seeing these people and I assumed perhaps they were friends of hers. Nope- family! I couldn't believe I hadn't even taken my seat before being greeted with huge smiles and hugs by cousins I was meeting for the very first time. My cousin Padraig (Patrick) said jokingly, " I hope you brought a very long piece of paper for the family tree because it will be as long as this boat!" His father then gave me a huge bear hug followed by, "Welcome to your roots, Lass!!" Already this was going so lovely. I loved listening to them talk to one another in Gaelic. The islands are still a Gaeltacht, or Gaelic-language, area. While the locals speak Irish among themselves, they happily speak English for their visitors. Once making it to Inis Oírr, Caitlín and I stopped at the Island's cemetery where we visited many grave sights of my relatives. O'Flaherta was a common name on so many of the beautiful celtic cross headstones. It was so wild knowing nearly all of these O'Flahertys were related to me in some way. This was such a special experience. Side note* in the photo above, the gravestone on the right belongs to Tim Rúa O'Flaherta. Caitlín told me that Rúa means "redhead" in Gaelic and that the red hair in the family used to be much more common then it has been in the Flaherty's more recent generations. Needless to say, everyone was VERY excited and impressed by my red locks! Most roads on the Island look like this, very narrow and lined with stone "fences". In the distance you can see County Clare, across the water from Inisheer. "The Aran way of life requires you to slow down and appreciate beauty. The landscape is a living testament to the glory of creation. The greatest values are places on family and friendship, rather than wealth, accumulation and prestige." This little stone well above is called Tobar Einne, or referred to as St. Andrew's Well. Caitlín told me that when she was small, her family would circle around the well nine times while praying. This was a tradition for many of the Islanders. The well's water is said to be very holy and healing. A cousin of mine had a small growth on her face and after slashing her face with water from this well, it was healed! The harsh, choppy sea crashing against the rocks was so beautiful, even on the cold and rainy day. In the photo above, you can see Plassy, a cargo vessel that carried whiskey, stained glass and yarn. She was caught in a bad storm in 1960 and bumped into Finnish Rock, Inisheer. A group of local Islanders rescued the entire crew from the boat. It still stands today as a landmark, in all it's rust and glory! This delightful little church sits across the road from where my great-grandpa Bartly's house used to stand. It is the church the locals have gone to for hundreds of years. I absolutely adored the simplicity compared to the extravagant churches I am accustomed to seeing in Italy. My family still goes to mass here today, gets married here, baptized, etc. I was happy we were able to visit this special place. Also, my cousin mentioned that St. Caoimhghín (St. Kevin) is the patron saint of Inis Oírr. This was such a beautiful thing! Unfortunately, I did not have Kevin's mass card with me, so I created a little makeshift prayer card instead... "Wherever I am, you'll always be, more than just a memory..." -Flogging Molly The rest of the day involved meeting tons of cousins (about 30!), drinking lots of Irish tea, cozying up by the peat-burning fire and flipping through picture books and family trees. I loved going through and learning the names and stories of relatives on the Islands and those that moved to America. If you ever get the opportunity to trace your roots, I highly recommend it. Learning about where and who you come from is truly an incredible thing. Caitlín and I, freezing and wet, back on the Aran Ferry heading for the "mainland." Behind us in the distance you can see the Island's famous castle, O'Brien's Castle. Gorgeous sunset as we departed the Island. Until next time, Inisheer! It was so wonderful spending the night at Caitlín's home and sleeping in the first "real bed" I have slept in since I've gotten to Europe! Sunday morning, before heading back to Dublin to catch my flight on Monday, I enjoyed a homemade Irish breakfast and tea courtesy of Caitlín. We attended mass in Ballinasloe at St. Michael's. I loved listening to the thick brogues of the priest and all the churchgoers! Later Sunday afternoon, Caitlín drove me to Dublin which is about a two hour drive. Being able to sit back and relax as we drove through the countryside of Ireland was such a treat. Lots of greenery, lovely homes and tons of sheep! Once we arrived in Dublin, I said my goodbyes to Caitlín and couldn't thank her enough for having me for the weekend and acting as my very own tour guide and as a real-life Ancestory.com. She was wonderful and continued to remind me I was "always welcome, my dear". I went out for a bit Sunday night and explored the nightlife in Dublin. So many great Irish pubs, most with live Irish pub songs being played inside. I had a few Bulmers at O'Connell's, conveniently right next to my hostel, and chatted with tons of super friendly locals. The band was playing many of my favorite pub songs, most I recognized from our collection at home which we always play around St. Paddy's Day! Monday morning I met up with Bridget and Katie. Together, we ventured out and decided to spend our morning at St. James Gate Guinness Brewery! We didn't have a whole lot of time since our flight back to Bologna was later that afternoon but, I was happy we made due with the small amount of time we had. Always a lovely day for a Guinness! Guinness Storehouse, the "Home of Guinness", is Dublin's most popular tourist attraction. A converted brewing factory, it is now a Guinness museum, incorporating elements from the old brewing factory to explain the history of its production. Some of the old brewing equipment is on show, as well as stout ingredients, brewing techniques, advertising methods and storage devices. The exhibition takes place over 7 floors, in the shape of a 14 million pint glass of Guinness. The final floor is the Gravity Bar, which has an almost 360° panorama over the city, where visitors can claim a free pint of "the black stuff". We learned the "6 Step Pouring Process" on how to pour the "Perfect pint of Guinness". A certificate was awarded to each of us once we poured our pint "just right." I must say mine looked pretty great and tasted even better... Such an incredible trip and family reunion- one I will remember forever! So thankful for this experience. See you again very soon, beautiful Emerald Isle! Sláinte O'Flaherta!
Shine On -KRIS10
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Disgraceland hits Bologna Over the summer I was delighted to learn that The Orwells were not only touring Europe while I'd be studying abroad but, they would be making a stop at The Covo Club, the small venue/bar a few blocks from campus. The suburban Chicago rock band, whom I've seen several times prior, put on the best show I've seen of their's yet on Tuesday night. I hadn't caught an Orwells show since before Disgraceland, their second album, had been released so seeing them rock their new and older tunes was such a blast! Frontman, Mario Cuomo, lent me the mic for a bit to belt the lyrics to Bathroom Tile Blues. Definitely my favorite track on the new album. Clearly, we were having quite the Tuesday evening! After the show, we went out with a few of the band members and showed them Bologna's hottest bars, at least a few of our favorites that stay open late on the weekdays! Excited for Part II in Paris, France in a few more weeks. Well done, boys!
Shine On -KRIS10 When in Rome Dean Martin's "On an Evening in Roma" was totally stuck in my head all weekend as we explored the Roman city and all of it's ancient glory. So many buildings, churches, statues, art, piazzas, etc, etc, to see and so much to do. I was not expecting Rome to be such a huge city. We did much of our traveling on the metro which was helpful in making time to see as many of Rome's special sitings as possible. "Though there's grinin' and madonlin' in sunny Italy; the beginning has just begun..." Early Saturday morning, we took a shuttle bus to the Vatican City from our hotel. The Sistine Chapel, without a doubt is one of the greatest masterpieces in the world and was first on our agenda. As we finally made it through the seemingly never-ending Vatican Museum, we were engulfed in the hustle and bustle of the many people inside the Chapel admiring the incredible work of Michelangelo. I couldn't believe I was tilting my head back and seeing the depiction of God and Adam with my own two eyes. Simply stunning! Side note: The photo above is mine- I must admit we captured a few when the guards weren't looking. I just had to! Perfect sunny day in Italia! We wandered about for a bit, meeting up with friends that are studying in Rome. It's always lovely to have a "local" to act as our guide around the city. The Pantheon, below, is another incredibly old and beautiful building in Rome. By "old" I mean REALLY old. It's really crazy how long these places have been standing. The Pantheon was built around 27 BC- 14 AD... She looks good for her age, right? So, of all of the many stunning Roman landmarks, the Trevi Fountain stands out to me- partially because it's gorgeous and partially because Lizzie McGuire got my third-grade-self entirely hopeful for my moment at tossing a coin in and making a wish. That being said... the fountain is undergoing a yearlong restoration and cleaning process the same time I am living in Italy, just my luck right? Regardless of the huge scaffolding and the fountain's lack of water, we threw our coins in (*clink*) and made our wishes anyhow! After makin' our wishes in the "fountain"... gelato was on our radar, of course. So, we made a pit stop for THE BEST gelato I've ever eaten, which is saying a lot since I have tried and tasted countless yummy yummy gelaterias since September. But honestly, Giolitti takes the trophy. Anyone planning a trip to Roma, get yourself a large coni con molti gusti from this heaven on earth. Checking out The Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica at night- all lit up and looking gorgeous! Last stop of the evening? The secret bakery. This place is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Their freshly made pastries are to die for, any time of the day! A thirty Euro cent warm and gooey Nutella-filled doughnut... cannot think of a more delicious way to end the evening in Roma! Again, we woke up early Sunday morning and headed to the Vatican City. Yet ANOTHER sunny day in Rome! Heading into St. Peter's Basilica ... eeek! The most spectacular altar I've ever seen. The Pieta, below, is Michelangelo's breathtaking statue of Mary holding Jesus' body after the Crucifixion. I could not help but smile as I entered the basilica, being greeted with this statue, because I immediately thought of my Aunt Bea. I remember when I was young she had a small replica of this statue in her living room. Couldn't help but think of her! So beautiful... Pope John Paul II PJP II is laid to rest here. Such a special experience seeing this sacred tomb. And that dome! UGH I never knew that it was possible, but I highly recommend doing so if you ever get the chance... to climb up to the top of the cupola of St. Peter's Basilica. The fantastic panorama view of Rome and seeing all across the Vatican City was amazing. The 551 steps up, through the insanely tiny and narrow staircases, was not the easiest "climb" for me, but SO rewarding. On the way up, we stopped and enjoyed the view from inside, looking down into the basilica; I wasn't into the heights so much but again, the view was just too incredible to not absorb fully. And finally to the tippy top! I love this photo best because of the view of the Vatican Square and the shadow of the basilica to the left. Perfect. This crew has been nothing short of wonderful to travel with; my last experience with them I was jumping off a cliff in Cinque Terre, now conquering my fear of heights- yet again. Gotta love it! Rome, you were absolutely marvelous. Strange , and sad, to say this was my last weekend exploring an Italian city. Where the ech-ee-double hockey sticks has this time abroad gone? Packing for Ireland now. Anticipating this trip immensely as I'm meeting with distant relatives while in Galway and the Islands. I will share the details next week. I hope your weekend is full of smiles, friendship, and adventure!
Ciao! And Sláinte, too! Shine On. -KRIS10 "Happiness is only real when shared." -Christopher McCandless New friendships + new city = perfect Belgian trip We arrived in Brussels on late Saturday evening, stopped in for a quick beer and made our way to Van Gough Hostel. Quickly, Gail and I befriended Gabbie, (from Siesta Key- AWESOME!) and decided to explore the city together. And so the adventure began... Sunday morning we woke up early and set out to find the Manneken Pis. This was the goofiest tourist attraction- a fountain sculpture of a little peeing boy. This tiny guy, standing at only three and a half feet, is the national symbol of Belgium. Everywhere we went we saw replicas and depictions. There are several stories as to how he came to be so symbolic; one being that a little boy was awaken by a fire and promptly put it out by urinating on it, saving the king's castle in the process. However the story goes, tourists really go crazy for him. There was an enormous crowd surrounding the fenced-in fountain, all snapping shots and capturing their moment by the famous pee-er! Oh! And get this- he even has a wardrobe that is changed every so often, bummed we didn't see him sporting a little ensemble! Hilarious nonetheless. Abigail and I taking our turn posing with "Brussels' Oldest Citizen"... The Grand Place, also called the Grote Markt, is the central square of the city. Another huge tourist attraction and a very important landmark. There were many chocolatiers, restaurants, hotels, art stands, and the Museum of the City of Brussels in the main square. I couldn't get enough of those incredible buildings. At night, they were lit up so beautifully. Luckily, this was our point of direction that we went to often, since everything sort of branched out from this main area. Brussels has a thriving art scene, not only in galleries and museums, but all around the city streets. These huge murals, wall paintings, and cartoon scenes can be found on the sides and faces on tons of buildings. The one above was one of my favorites; it was refreshing to see actual pictures and images in the street paintings rather than the harsh graffiti in many other European cities. Brussels has been dubbed as the comic strip capital of the world; also home to the little blue Smurf's! We popped into the The Belgian Comic Strip Center and browsed tons of illustrated artwork. So fun! On to lunch... Mussles in Brussels! Had no idea that mussels and "french fries" - (which by the way were actually founded in Belgium)- are the national dishes of Belgium. The mussels were fantastic and are in season from September to February. Traditionally, they are served in a steaming pot of savory broth, like the one I ordered, with a side of frites and homemade mayonnaise. And of course, a tall glass of Stella Artois. Stella has been brewed in Belgium since 1926. As if I needed one more indulgence, I scurried over to one of the many many Belgian Waffle stands. A true Belgian Waffle is larger, but lighter, than your typical waffle. The higher grid creates perfect little pockets to hold all the absolutely delicious toppings. Chopped bananas, kiwis, fresh strawberries, thick whipped cream, hot chocolate, and powered sugar... anything goes. In my opinion, if you're ganna do it, do it BIG. So, of course I told them to "load it up!" Gabbie and I, moments before this little delicacy was gone... We continued to journey around the city- probably best to walk off all the grub! Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula- beautiful church, but check out that heavenly sky! Love it. The St. Hubert Gallery is a glass-covered shopping "arcade" in the center of Brussels. Even the shopping centers are gorgeous. Lots of fancy and very famous chocolatiers can be found here. Another major tourist attraction: The Atomium. This giant atom was created by an architect for the World Fair of Brussels in 1958. Its original structure symbolizes an iron crystal enlarged 165 billion times. The atom was the center of attention and seen as ultra modern. Sitting pretty with The Atomium- which stands at nearly 400 feet tall. After a long day of exploration around Brussels, a quick power nap and a night out was a must! We were advised that the Délirium Café was a big hot spot as far as the bar scene goes. This bar is known for the endless beer list, with more than 3,000 beer brands to choose from; it was featured in The Guinness Book of Records in 2004. The Delirium Tremens beer has been voted as the "best beer in the world". After tasting this Strong Pale Ale, I totally agree. I also adored the beer glass it came in, with little pink elephant symbols all over it- this elephant can be found at the cafe's entrance as well. Such a perfect end to this trip. The journey back to Bologna Monday morning could have gone a little smoother without that infamous beer the night before, but hey- it's the Belgian way! See you again someday, you crazy beautiful city.
Shine On. -KRIS10 The most important things are the easiest to obtain... great friends, good food, and a decent bottle of wine. -Blake Mycoskie Ciao, amici! Super stressful school week here in Bologna, I know it hardly looks like we go to class but I promise there is actually tons of work and studying being done!! Especially difficult to focus after coming back from such adventurous weekend trips. As usual, it was one for the books! Friday evening, Spring Hill College hosted a music and chili cook off night at the Poggeschi Jesuit Center for the students and the Bologna community. Voodoo Sound Club was the featured band of the evening; a mix of funk, afrobeat and rock- they were pretty great. The saxophonist is a well-known guy and one of the top artists in Italy. He had everyone up and dancing! The music was great but really, I'm all about the food. SUCH a treat to have the American students whip up huge pots of chili. One of our professors, Sean, organized the cook off. The students made a vegetarian chili, chocolate chili, and Sean made his 'famous' original chili. I must say that I had nothing to do with the cooking but everything to do with the devouring. Really made me realize how much I miss Sunday's in Chicago with Bud Lights, Da Bears, and a steaming bowl of Nancy and Ed's chili! It was such a perfect evening! Bologna, you're so good to me. Shine On. -KRIS10 Also, great job to the students that put this night together!! You guys rock. |
Europe 2014 |